FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

As an average gun owner, can I properly apply DuraCoat® products without training?

Absolutely! DuraCoat® is extremely easy to apply. Anyone can do it. DuraCoat® was designed for the average gun owner. Preheating, baking and blasting are not required. Expensive, space consuming equipment is not needed. Simply clean and degrease the surface prior to application. If you don't have access to an airbrush, HVLP spray gun or conventional spray gun, our Shake ‘N Spray™ Finishing Kit or DuraCoat® Aerosol Kit are a great place to start!

 

How durable is DuraCoat®?

With normal use, a firearm finished with DuraCoat® will last several lifetimes.

 

What is DuraCoat®?

DuraCoat® is a two-part chemical coating. Unlike other firearm finishes, DuraCoat® was created specifically for firearms. Other firearm finishes are "spin-offs" from other industries.

 

Do I have to be a Certified Finisher to purchase DuraCoat® products?

Absolutely not! DuraCoat® can be purchased by anyone. DuraCoat® was designed for gun owners with little or no firearm finishing skills.

 

How do I apply DuraCoat®?

DuraCoat® can be applied by airbrush, conventional spray gun, or HVLP spray gun. It is also available in an aerosol version.

 

Can DuraCoat® be brushed on?

Generally no, DuraCoat® is for spray application. Small accents or pattern designs can be applied with an artist’s brush but be aware that it will not level out.

Will DuraCoat® adhere to hard coat anodizing and Parkerizing?

DuraCoat® loves hard coat anodizing and Parkerizing as a base. Both processes leave a good rooting surface for DuraCoat®.

 

How much DuraCoat® is needed to finish one rifle?

A 4oz container of DuraCoat® will coat 1-2 long guns or 2-4 handguns.

Do I need a special degreaser?

Yes. Some degreasers, especially those used in the automative industry, can leave a residue. This residue will form a barrier between the surface and the DuraCoat® causing a coating failure. We manufacture TruStrip™ Cleaner/Degreaser solely for the firearms industry. TruStrip™ is capable of cleaning the contaminates commonly found on firearms and will not leave a residue.

 

Do I need a special solvent to clean my airbrush or spray gun?

DuraCoat® Reducer is the best solvent to use as it will break down the DuraCoat® and not cause any contamination issues. Products like lacquer thinner can be used for initial clean up but should be followed up with DuraCoat® Reducer to remove the residues left behind. Acetone can also be used but sparingly as this is hard on your equipment. DuraCoat® Reducer will keep your airbrush or spray gun in top working condition.

 

Is reducing DuraCoat® required?

Depending on your spray equipment, spray technique, climate, and environment your DuraCoat® may or may not need reducing. If your DuraCoat® does not lay down smooth on the surface of your firearm, it most likely needs to be reduced. Always have some DuraCoat® Reducer on hand as it may be required on given days due to weather conditions.

The same applies to DuraCoat® Retarder. Always have some DuraCoat® Retarder on hand as it cures problems normally occurring in high humidity weather. One of these high humidity problems called "blushing" makes the DuraCoat® appear cloudy. Another called "dry spray" occurs when some of the DuraCoat® dries before it reaches the firearm and causes a rough or dusty surface.

 

Can I blend DuraCoat® colors together?

Yes. All DuraCoat® colors can be intermixed. With a handful of standard DuraCoat® colors, you can create an infinite number of colors by blending them.

 

When is DuraCoat® fully cured?

DuraCoat® is dry to the touch in 20 minutes, can be handled in 1 hour and is ready for use overnight. Although DuraCoat® will gain most of its final hardness, elasticity and chemical resistance over a 2-3 week period, time will continue to enhance DuraCoat®'s characteristics over a lifetime. DuraCoat®, like fine wine, gets better with age. As we say, "DuraCoat® wears in, not out."

 

How do I apply DuraCoat® to wood?

Degrease and lightly sand wood surfaces. Use DuraFil™ to remove any scratches and dings, then apply DuraCoat®. Allow to dry overnight. Do not bake.

 

I hunt along saltwater. Will DuraCoat® withstand the salty environment?

Certainly. DuraCoat® is well suited for salty environments. One of DuraCoat®'s attributes is its extreme ability to resist salt corrosion.

 

What is the shelf life of DuraCoat®?

The shelf life of DuraCoat® is 12-18 months and DuraCoat® Hardener is 6 months, if properly sealed and stored in a cool, dark, and dry place. These shelf lives can be extended by sealing the product in a zip lock bag and placing it in a refrigerator. The refrigerator should be a coating-dedicated refrigerator and should not be used to store food or drinks.

 

Will DuraCoat® burn off my barrel?

DuraCoat® can withstand temperatures as high has 500-600°F. With "normal" shooting, your barrel should never get close to being that hot. If you are fortunate enough to own a transferable machine gun, or if you like to "blaze" with your semi-auto, do not put DuraCoat® on your barrel as your barrel temperature will rise to over 1,000°F. In those cases, use our DuraHeat™ 2.0 coating. Our DuraHeat™ 2.0 coating can withstand temperatures up to 1,500°F.

 

How easy is DuraCoat® removed?

Not easy at all. The elastic nature of DuraCoat® resists blasting. A qualified individual, with the proper blast media, can safely remove DuraCoat® without damaging the surface of the firearm. Be careful. In most cases, we recommend lightly blasting the surface, being cautious not to remove any DuraCoat®. Just "beat up" the DuraCoat® giving it "tooth" so your new application of DuraCoat® has something to adhere to.

 

What makes DuraBlue® different than DuraCoat®?

DuraBlue® is a revolutionary new coating that was formulated out of DuraCoat®, but is a specialized coating all on its own. DuraBlue® uses the same Hardener as DuraCoat® and retains the same durability as DuraCoat®, but it replicates the look of traditional bluing.

DuraBlue® is able to replicate this look because a person can see through the coating, but not all the way through to the underlying surface. This transparent effect gives it the depth needed to successfully replicate bluing. In order to fully achieve this effect though, the actual spray application process is slightly different than DuraCoat®. Be sure to read and understand the DuraBlue® instructions before attempting in order to ensure that you achieve the desired bluing replication effect.

 

Should I blast the surface prior to coating with DuraBlue®?

Blasting the surface is not required although it will help to improve adhesion of the coating. A blasted surface will not affect the appearance of the DuraBlue® since it hides whatever surface you are coating.

 

Why does DuraBlue® come with a disposable strainer?

DuraBlue® is a specially formulated coating that relies upon its transparent effect in order to replicate the look of traditional bluing. This means that any solids present in the coating prior to application will noticeably appear on the surface of the parts being coated. Be sure to always shake, mix, and strain the DuraBlue® according to its instructions prior to application.

 

Can DuraBlue® be baked?

Yes, metal parts that have been coated with DuraBlue® can be baked to speed up the initial dry time. Once fully coated, you can either:

a) Hang parts to dry overnight. Reassembly can be done the next day and the firearm can be put into use.

OR

b) Bake metal parts at 110°F for 90 minutes or 200°F for 20 minutes. Reassembly can be done and the firearm put into use once the parts have cooled down to room temperature.

Only expose your parts to light use during the 3-4 week cure time. Once fully cured, DuraBlue® will provide an abrasion, impact, and corrosion resistant finish.  It will also be resistant to oils, cleaners, and solvents.

 

Will DuraBlue® hide DuraFil™?

DuraFil™ is used to fill pits, scratches, and dings before coating with DuraBlue® or DuraCoat®. Since DuraBlue® hides the surface you are coating, the DuraFil™ will not be seen once it has been coated over. This fact enables endless gun restoration possibilities.

 

Can DuraBlue® be touched-up?

If a blemish occurs on the surface of the DuraBlue®, the blemish can be touched-up but the entire surface of the part will need to be recoated with DuraBlue® in order to blend the touch-up in with the rest of the surface. This prevents the touch-up from being noticeable.

To touch-up a blemish:

1) Clean the entire surface of the part.

2) Lightly hand sand the blemish.

3) If it has been longer than 7 days since coating, lightly hand sand the entire surface of the part in order to give the DuraBlue® texture to adhere to. You may skip this step if it has been within 7 days since originally coating with DuraBlue®.

4) Blow off any sanding dust using clean shop air.

5) Spray DuraBlue® on the blemish and the entire surface of the part in order to both hide the blemish and create a uniform look and sheen with the rest of the surface.

6) Allow part to air or oven dry as stated in the DuraBlue® instructions.

 

Will DuraBlue® hide the welds on my firearm?

Yes, DuraBlue® will hide all welds on your firearm.

 

Will DuraBlue® adhere to bare/raw aluminum?

Yes, DuraBlue® will adhere to all metals and plastics. Be sure to properly prepare all surfaces prior to coating per the DuraBlue® instructions.

 

Can DuraBlue® be used as touch-up for hot bluing?

No, DuraBlue® will not blend into the current bluing on a firearm and the touch-up will be noticeable. The entire surface of the part would need to be recoated in DuraBlue® in order to be effective. DuraBlue® is a bluing replacement that utilises modern technology to replicate the look of traditional bluing while also possessing the same durability that our DuraCoat® products are known for.

 

How come other firearm finish manufacturers boast hardness, but make no mention of elasticity?

In the case of firearm finishes, a common misconception is "harder is better". This is faulty "old school thinking". Hardness means brittle and brittle means chipping. DuraCoat®, being elastic, should not chip. If your DuraCoat® chips, it means you have a preparation problem. Most likely, the surface was not clean. Elasticity provides protection by "giving" when confronted with impact. Elasticity also helps prevent scratches and mars.

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